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1920’s Diamond and Platinum Ring: Sugar et Cie’s Item of the Week
11 / 02

 

WHAT WOULD DAISY WEAR?

Vintage Diamond and Platinum Ring

© Copyright Sugar et Cie 2013

 

 

Diamonds set in platinum of course! If you didn’t see this year’s release of the Great Gatsby (the 5th and latest film version of F. Scott Fitzgerald’s novel) you might want to, if only to drool over the 1920’s fashion and jewelry (collaboration between Miuccia Prada and Catherine Martin).

 

Our item of the week is a sparkling diamond and emerald platinum ring from the Jazz Age era. With just over 3 carats of diamonds, it is no doubt a ring that Daisy would have adored.

 

 

Art Deco Chic

 

 

1 – In the latest film version, afternoon tea looks like it might have been catered by Ladurée. Silver tiered stands are piled high with pink and green macarons and other pastel colored sweets topped with raspberries and sugared roses. Can’t make it to the nearest Ladurée? Purchase Thé Othello (with hints of cinnamon, cardamom, pepper, ginger), Thé Marie-Antoinette (subtle notes of rose petals, citrus and honey), or macarons (raspberry, rose petal, lemon, chocolate, etc.) by calling their New York store and having them ship you your order.

 

2Carine Gilson’s handcrafted lingerie with silk from Lyon and Chantilly lace looks like it came straight out of Daisy’s closet. This one in coral silk.

 

3 – The Rosebud Perfume Co. was in business in the 1920’s. Would Daisy have used this Minted Rose Balm to maintain her Cupid’s Bow lips?

 

4 – Established in 1849 in Paris, Moynat (similar to other luxury luggage companies at that time e.g. Louis Vuitton and Goyard) introduced its repeating initial M pattern designed by Henri Rapin in 1920.

 

5Chanel No. 5 was launched in the summer of 1921. While the Great Gatsby was published in 1925, it was written about the summer of 1922. The latest from Chanel would have definitely made Daisy’s Mush Have List.

 

6 – Late blooming peonies and summer gardenias would have probably been floating in a silver bowl near Daisy’s bedside.

 

ITEM OF THE WEEK DIAMOND: ART DECO, EMEARLD AND PLATINUM RING

 

This is a spectacular diamond and emerald ring with slightly over 3 carats of Old Mine Cut diamonds. The emerald at the center has a vivid green hue and is bezel set in platinum with millegrained edges. It’s displayed in a vintage sterling silver ring box by Maison Birks.

 

1920's Diamond and Emerald Ring

 

This Art Deco Diamond, Emerald and Platinum Ring, Bombé Sparkler is available in our Cocktail rings collection.

 

05 / 24

 

New Arrivals in the Spun Sugar collection at Sugar et Cie

 

We have three new Alligator Cuffs to share with you. The first two have antique paste buckles from the Georgian period which spans the rule of the four King Georges in England from 1714 to 1837.

 

Antique & Modern: Georgian Paste Buckle and Alligator Cuff in Raspberry Glaze

Antique Paste Buckle on Raspberry Pink Alligator Cuff

© Copyright Sugar et Cie 2013

 

If you are new to paste from this period and are wondering why something it is so sought after, here are just a couple of the reasons from a long list.

 

Rarity: By definition, pieces from this period are at least 176 years old. Over time they get damaged or are disassembled into smaller pieces, resulting in fewer available pieces every year that goes by.

 

Art Form: Jewelers/craftsman that created pieces of paste jewelry felt they were creating art, not a simulation of something more valuable. They were able to cut the stones into shapes that diamond cutters could not achieve at the time due to technical and financial factors. They took pride in their work and while not all pieces from this period are art, if you know what to look for you can find quality pieces. Who doesn’t want to wear something of quality and beauty?

 

Antique & Modern: Georgian Paste Buckle and Alligator Cuff Bracelet in Denim Blue Glaze

Georgian Paste Buckle on Denim Blue Alligator Cuff

© Copyright Sugar et Cie 2013

 

The third piece is from a later date, most likely the 1920’s. It has a geometric design that was popular during the Art Deco period, significantly different than the jewelry designs popular during period preceding it – the Edwardian period.

 

Antique & Modern: Paste Buckle and Alligator Cuff Bracelet in Blush Glaze

Blush Pink Alligator Cuff

© Copyright Sugar et Cie 2013

 

Jewelry from the Edwardian period utilized diamonds and pale colored gemstones rather than diamonds and the bold colors of rubies, emeralds, sapphires, onyx, etc. often the focal point in Art deco jewelry. Edwardian jewelry was feminine, light, and delicate, featuring motifs such as garlands, wreaths, and flowers again differing from the angular lines and geometric shapes of the 1920’s and 1930’s.

 

If you’d like to see some interesting pieces from the Art Deco Period, visit Christie’s and take a look at the sale “The Doris Duke Collection of Important Jewelry,” from 2004, especially the the diamond hair slides in the shape of crescent moons by Cartier circa 1930’s.

04 / 26

 

Item of the Week: Georgian Paste Earrings

 

We’ve been obsessed with finding a pair of good quality Georgian Paste Earrings (single stone drops). They had to be Georgian with a good amount of sparkle, well-made, and set in silver.

 

We found them! These beautiful Georgian, cushion cut (old mine cut) paste earrings have survived over two centuries and still have their sparkle. Originally shirt studs, they were converted to earrings by adding rose gold ear wires. They have all the signs of well-made paste from this period: “cut-down” or collet settings in which the edge is smooth, delicate, and almost merges with the stone; no yellowing, which means the setting was well-made and airtight; and set in silver.

 

A pair of this quality and condition from the Georgian period is getting harder to come by. For more information, to purchase or view other earrings in this collection, visit the the Spun Sugar Collection at Sugar et Cie.

 

Georgian Paste Earrings

 

© Copyright Sugar et Cie 2013

 

Our Other Obsession: The Aigrette

 

For those that may not have heard of it before, it is a jeweled hair ornament that resembles a spray of upright feathers, sometimes with an actual feather or tuft of feathers sprouting from the top. The feathers were often from the egret, which translates to aigrette in French. The jeweled portion can be fixed or “en trembleuse”/trembling, so that it trembles with movement.

 

Aigrettes were the most popular hair ornaments in the late 19th and early 20th century. Cartier and other well-known French jewelers, frequented special suppliers to purchase the feathers. White, shimmering green, and jet black feathers from around the world (New Guinea, Egypt and Central America) were all in demand. Cartier’s aigrette designs changed over time as different cultures inspired him. Evolving from floral motifs, to those influenced by Asia and Persia and then India.

 

From the 16th century through 19th century, aigrettes were most often worn on the top of the head, tiara, hat, etc. In the 1920’s the placement moved slightly. Now they were most often pinned to a band that wrapped around the head. The aigrette was attached to the band at the center of the forehead or at the side of the head, over the ear. The aigrette is becoming popular again today with brides who want a 1920’s inspired look. Take a look at this photo shoot by Vogue of Carrie Mulligan in 1920’s inspired fashion: including a few aigrettes, for the upcoming movie “The Great Gatsby”.

 

What piece of jewelry are you currently obsessed with?

04 / 23

 

The Most Expensive White Diamond

 

A record was set last week for the most expensive white diamond sold in the Americas. Sotheby’s announced that on April 17th, they sold a D color, pear-shaped diamond, of approximately 75 carats, for a cool $14.2 million ($189,000 per carat).

 

Yes it is a beautiful diamond, but our two favorites from this sale are an Emerald and Diamond Necklace from Van Cleef & Arpels and a Platinum “Tutti Frutti” Bracelet from Cartier.

 

Other Favorites From the Magnificent Jewels Auction

 

The Van Cleef & Arpels necklace is a sparkling extravaganza of vivid green emeralds and bright white diamonds. 33 heart-shaped emeralds weighing 164.96 carats, are accented by 51 heart shaped diamonds, further accented by additional marquise, pear and round cut diamonds. This lovely jewel sold for $1,055,000, significantly over the estimate of $450,000 to $650,000.

 

Jewels from Sotheby's

Cartier’s Art Deco Tutti Frutti Jewels

 

The Cartier “Platinum, Carved Colored Stone, Diamond and Pearl ‘Tutti Frutti’ Bracelet by Cartier sold for $1,445,000, also significantly over its estimate of $300,000 to $500,000. Tutti Frutti, as these pieces are known, is named for a series of colorful bracelets, necklaces, earrings, brooches, etc. designed by Cartier originally in the 1920’s and 1930’s. They are comprised of carved rubies, emeralds, and sapphires and interspersed with diamonds, resembling a fruit salad.

 

Famous Cartier Clients from the Art Deco Period

 

You may have heard of a few of Cartier’s clients who purchased these pieces. They were trendsetters and significantly impacted the popularity of the Tutti Frutti jewels. In 1925, Mrs. Cole Porter purchased a bracelet comprised of carved sapphires, rubies, emerald beads, onyx, black enamel, and diamonds. In 1935, she purchased a double clip brooch, with a similar color scheme, leaf shaped carved sapphires, rubies, emeralds, and diamonds.

 

Daisy Fellowes, considered to be one of the most fashionable and elegant women of the 20th century, heiress, socialite, author and Paris editor of Harper’s Bazaar in the 1930’s, commissioned a Tutti Frutti necklace. It was originally referred to as the Hindu necklace. It too was comprised of carved rubies, emerald, sapphires and accented with diamonds. It differed in that it featured briolette cut sapphires. The briolettes alone, weighted in at 146.9 carats. It has become one of the more famous Tutti Frutti pieces.

 

The artistry, craftsmanship, not to mention the gemstones utilized in these pieces are from a time gone by and would be nearly impossible to recreate today. As such, the demand for these beautiful works of art has only increased over the years. Each time they come up for auction, their prices seem to climb just a bit higher.